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Q. Jerry writes: I planted two gardenias a
month ago. Both are making new growth but are also losing some of their older
leaves. One is dropping it's buds before they open. What is needed?
A. Newly planted trees and shrubs may drop some of
their leaves and fail to open flowers buds when added to the new site. It's part
of the transplant shock symptoms that can occur during the transition period.
It's also late in the season for gardenias to be blooming so some of the bud
drop is normal.
Keep up normal plant care to help your gardenia adjust as quickly as possible.
This includes making sure the root ball remains moist. Gardeners should build a
4- to 6-inch berm of soil at the edge of the root ball to catch and direct
moisture down through the root system. Other wise the water runs around the root
ball without wetting the plant to contribute to the transplant shock and
sometimes major decline.
Give the plantings a first feeding 4 to 6 weeks after they have been in the
ground to help encourage green leaf growth. Use a general garden fertilizer or a
gardenia special available at garden centers.
Q. Phyllis writes: I have heard some viburnums are
foul smelling. Which ones should I avoid when picking plants for my landscape.
A. Most viburnums have little or no odor and a few
like the sweet viburnum have fragrant flowers. One of concern to some gardeners
is the Sandankwa(cq) viburnum also know as the suspensum viburnum. This species
has a very pungent odor when the leaves are crushed or trimmed.
Gardeners usually overlook the odor as it forms a low growing hedge or
foundation planting with little care. Expect it to grow to 4 to 6 feet tall with
just minor trimming of out of bounds limbs. If the odor is of concern it's
probably best used in the background away from family activities.
Q. Glenda writes: I planted a bottlebrush tree in
February and have been expecting some blooms. When will it flower and what care
is needed?
A. Bottlebrush trees open a majority of their
blooms on brush-like shoots during February and March. A few additional shoots
with blossoms may be produced during the spring season. You may have to wait a
year or two after planting until the tree slows growth to obtain a good display
of color.
Feed the tree once in March and June with a general garden fertilizer for the
first three years after planting. Thereafter additional fertilizer is normally
not need as the tree obtains needed nutrients from nearby lawn and shrub
feedings. The trees are drought tolerant but need extra waterings during
establishment and during the drier spring months.
Q. Diane writes: My fall squash and cucumbers have
been attached by worms that drill into the fruits. What are the pests and how
are they best controlled?
A. Melon and pickle worms love these crops plus
cantaloupes. A moth flies in to lay eggs on the fruits that hatch into the larva
stage that bores into the fruits to feed and develop. The first sign of attack
is a hole in the fruits oozing with excreta from the insects.
A good control is frequent sprays of a Bacillus thuringiensis(cq) containing
natural insecticide. Some brands include Dipel and Thuricide available at garden
centers. Start the sprays as fruits form and make repeat applications as
suggested on the product's label.
Q. Bill writes: I have a young crape myrtle that I have been told should be trimmed back to leave just sticks for trunks. What is the best pruning technique and when should it be done?
A. The crape myrtle should be allowed to remain dormant for a few more weeks. Delay the trimming until early to mid February. Pruning too early may encourage growth that could be damaged by a late season freeze.
Many gardeners are now choosing not to trim their crape myrtles. Allowing the shrubs and trees to assume a natural shape can be quite attractive. When pruned severely the plants often take a very artificial upright vase shape.
If you must do some pruning try just trimming off the ends of the branches with the seed heads. They can be trimmed back to a point on the stem about the thickness of your finger. Where the crape myrtles are too tall for the location selectively remove the taller portions back to branch angles or to the trunk.
Q. Sharon writes: I have a large dracaena near a bright window that has started to turn yellow. I have also noticed white cottony material among the foliage. What is the problem?
A. Your dracaena is feeding a population of mealy bugs. It's common for the insects to multiply on plants in the home where they are protected from the weather.
At first they live in the lower portions of the leaves and near buds. As they grow more numerous the insects may also be found on the surfaces of the leaves.
Mealy bugs are piercing sucking insects that remove the fluids from the plants causing the leave to turn yellow. When severe the plants weaken and gradually decline. Where possible use a soapy solution to wash the mealy bugs away. Other wise try an insecticidal soap or oil spray to obtain control. The insects are persistent and several treatments may be needed. following label instructions.
Q. Gina writes: We are growing a China doll foliage plant in our home. Recently it began dropping leaves. What does the plant need?
A. The China needs a bright location. In nature they grow as trees in full sun to light shade. Light levels in the home are often too low for sustained growth.
Plants can often live in the lower light until they deplete food reserves stored in the leaves and stems and then they begin to decline. You may have to move the plant to a very bright Florida room or patio to help it recover.
If you feel the light level is adequate check for mealy bugs and mites. Both pests often multiple to produce large populations on indoor plants that cause leaf drop. Where needed a soap or oil spray could be used to control the pests following label instructions.
Q. Tom writes: I have been growing camellias for two years. The plants have flowers and a few leaves but they do
not grow? What is the problem?
A. Failure of the plants to produce new growth suggests they have a root problem. Most likely they are pot bound and the root system is limited to the original ball. The restricted root system does encourage some flowering but little stem and leaf growth.
Dig down and take a peak at the root system. If limited mainly to the original root ball the plants are not going to grow and flower properly without some drastic action. It's probably best to dig the plants, pull apart the outer tightly entwined roots and replant. Some plants may be lost but they would likely continue to make little growth and eventually decline without the treatment.
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